Desi Perkins and Katy (LustreLux) recently collaborated with Dose of Colors to create a limited edition collection and today, I am going to be talking about and swatching The Girls Eyeshadow Palette!!!
Desi X Katy The Girls Eyeshadow Palette
The Desi X Katy Eyeshadow Palette comes with 4 shimmery eyeshadows. Each shade contains 1.73 grams (0.061 ounces) of product, giving the palette a total of 6.92 grams (2.44 ounces) of product. It is made in the USA and has a shelf life of 12 months.
The Desi X Katy The Girls Eyeshadow Palette retails for $35.08 AUD – $28.00 USD and can be purchased from Dose of Colors Online (restocking in September)
I am going to swatch each of the shades, compare the swatches and then tell you my overall thoughts on the palette!!
Shades + Swatches
I am going to swatch the 4 shades in the palette first wet, and then dry.
Shade 1– Suz
Suz is a Shimmery Yellow Sand Gold Shade
Shade 2– Noli
Noli is a Shimmery Bronze Gold Shade
Shade 3– Turbosan
Turbosan is a Shimmery Brown Shade
Shade 4– Harpoon
Harpoon is a Shimmery Olive Green Shade
Swatch Comparisons (Wet vs Dry)
My Overall Thoughts on The Girls Eyeshadow Palette
I am going to talk about each shade individually and let you know how they work, and then I will summarise everything up to my conclusion of the palette as a whole!!
Shade 1– Suz
Suz is a beautiful, bright sandy gold shade and is one of the shadows that has to be used wet for high color payoff. I did try it dry and it works but is very sheer and doesn’t pop. It applied so beautifully, easily and brightly to the lid using a MAC 249 Shader Brush sprayed with MAC Spray Fix Plus. It also glides on SUPER brightly and easily using the finger sprayed with Fix Plus or damp from water.
To get an even brighter application and to make Suz really POP, you can apply it first with a flat synthetic shader brush that works best with metallic and shimmery shades (the MAC 249 Brush is the best). You can then wet your finger and apply it over the top, packing it up to the intensity you want.
This is my preferred method for applying these type of shades because you can first map out and fill in the lid precisely with the brush, and then go in with the finger to make it even brighter. If you’re not careful, your finger can kind of get the product up into the crease, so I love that Suz works with the brush as well as the finger. What I really love about this shade is that it can be applied over the top of any of the other shades to create a beautiful, halo type effect, which I DIE FORRRRR!!
Suz is my FAVOURITE shade in the entire palette. I tend to go for light shades like this and I knew I would love it, but I didn’t think I would love it THIS much. It just applies sooo brightly to the lids and it is super, super pigmented when you wet it. I am going to be using this shade all the time alone and blended up slightly in the crease to create a halo type effect. It also looks really good with just a few transition shades in the crease to add a tiny bit of depth, and if you want to go all the way and do a dramatic cut crease , it also looks AMAZING all over the lid with dark shades blended into the crease. As you can tell, I really LOVE this shade.
Shade 2 – Noli
Noli is a beautiful Bronze Gold Shade. This shade can be used wet or dry, and does apply to the lid fairly well dry, however It is WAY more pigmented when you apply it wet and it turns into a more rich, pretty color. I tried this shade alone dry all over the lid, and I didn’t like it anywhere as much as I did when it was wet and the difference in pigmentation was extreme.
Noli can be applied perfectly with a MAC 249 Brush just like Suz can, and also works amazingly with the finger. I will use the method I talked about above with this shade too – packing the shadow on with a MAC 249 Shader Brush sprayed with Fix Plus first, and then wetting my finger and applying it over the top of this. When you do this with Noli, it just POP’S on the lids and looks absolutely beautiful.
Just like with Suz, I will wear Noli all over the lids alone or with some color in the crease. I was thinking this shade might be a bit too dark for me, but when I added water to the brush before applying, it turned into such a metallic, dark bronze gold shade. I have to step out of my comfort zone with wearing dark shades, and I think this shade might be my motivation for that because it is stunning. Noli also looks absolutely BEAUTIFUL with a bit of Suz dabbed over the top of it and in the centre of the lid, it just creates such a beautiful halo effect. Doing this also lightens the shade up for me which I love!!
Shade 3– Turbosan
Turbosan is a shimmery Blackened Brown Shade. This shade can be applied dry or wet, but just like with Noli, it looks way better when you wet it before application. Unlike Suz and Noli, Turbosan is harder to apply and build up with a MAC 249 Shader brush, and it kind of slips around and doesn’t go on so bright. This means that to get the best use and application out of it, you will have to apply it to the lids with a wet finger. When you do apply it with a slightly damp finger, Turbosan glides onto the lids so easily and is absolutely stunning, and very bright.
This shade isn’t really my favourite, and I am unsure how much (if any) use I will get out of it. As I have said a million times, I tend to shy away from dark shades and if I did use one, this wouldn’t be it. When you dampen your finger, make sure it isn’t soaking wet before dipping into the shadow. Dab your finger on something dry slightly before you dip into Turbosan because if you’re not careful, it can start to look a bid muddy.
I don’t think this shade is terrible at all, and people who really like dark eyeshadow will love this shade!! It’s just not my jam!!
Shade 4– Harpoon
Harpoon is a shimmery Olive Green Shade that Desi and Katy recommended to use wet. I did try it dry and it’s not terrible but just like with all of the shades, it looks so much better wet and it’s very hard to build it up to even half the pigmentation when you use it dry.
Just like Turbosan, Harpoon does not apply well with a MAC 249 Shader brush, so you will get the best application and pay-off using your finger.
When I tried to apply it with the synthetic flat brush (which worked perfectly with Suz and Noli), it just slipped around everywhere like Turbosan did, started to look muddy and was hard to build up.
When you do apply Harpoon with the finger, it applies so brightly and beautifully. It turns from a dull kind of Olive shade into a bright, metallic shade. This shade looks absolutely beautiful all over the lid, but I’m not sure if I will wear it much alone. I will most likely wear Harpoon with Suz dabbed over the top of it and in the centre but I probably won’t wear it alone much.
My Overall Thoughts on The Girls Palette
Overall, I am extremely happy with The Girls Eyeshadow Palette, it is stunning. I absolutely LOVE the formula and using the shadows wet transforms them into a totally different, highly pigmented, metallic shadow.
In terms of how much use I will get out of the palette as a whole, I am not sure that I will wear or reach for the two darker shades (Turbosan and Harpoon) very much because they just are not my favourite shades to wear. As for Suz and Noli, I will deffo get use out of them but of course, I will reach for Suz way more than I would for any shade, and this shade is the stand-out in the palette for me.
I love the palette but I am not on a makeup budget at the moment so it doesn’t bother me as much, but if you only like one shade, and know that you won’t get use out of the other shades, it would be less expensive and you would save money buying an individual shadow in the shade you like. While the formula is amazing, it is very dupable for many other metallic shades that pop on the lids when applied wet. There are multiple brands who sell a variety of individual shadows including MUG, ColourPop, ABH, Coastal Scents and more. I do think the theme is absolutely amazing though, and if you are a makeup collector you DEFFO need this palette.
I wasn’t expecting to do a chemical analysis in this post because I only do it when it’s necessary, but I encountered a slight irritation after applying some of the shades so of course, it then became necessary.
There is a VERY HIGH possibility this irritation may not be caused directly by the eyeshadows or the ingredients in them, but could be from mixing water in with them. When you do this, water mixes with the eyeshadow and yes, eyeshadows are composed of chemicals, so this could cause a slight irritation when mixing. I also used MAC Spray Fix Plus to wet my brush and fingers, so here I have added another formula and ingredients in which could be an obvious cause of irritation. This can be worsened by wetting the shadows too much, which can make them become runny.
I did find that the irritation calmed down after around 5-10 minutes and then everything felt normal and it wasn’t irritating at all anymore. This could be because after a while,, the eyeshadow and water (or spray fix plus) all dries down on the eye, and everything calms down. I don’t have sensitive skin AT ALL, I never get irritated by much but I could feel this. Other people are more sensitive, so if you are more sensitive, I am not sure that the irritation will go away like mine did.
I am going to go over each of the formula’s and talk about any ingredients that could be causing irritation.
Shade 1– Suz Formula
Contains 15 Ingredients – 10 Base Ingredients and 5 Pigment Ingredients
Formula ranked as ‘Recommended/Good’ by the Cosmetic Analysis Database
PTFE is the worst ingredient in the formula, and is ranked by the Database as a ‘Very Bad/To Be Avoided’ ingredient.
Carmine is in this shade as a pigment ingredient so the formula is not completely vegan.
Shade 2– Noli Formula
Contains 14 Ingredients – 10 Base Ingredients and 4 Pigment Ingredients
Formula Ranked as ‘Average’ by the Cosmetic Analysis Database
PTFE (ranked as a To Be Avoided/Very Bad Ingredient) is also in this shade
Noli contains no Carmine, so is vegan.
Shade 3– Turbosan
Contains 29 Ingredients – 13 Base Ingredients and 6 Pigment Ingredients
Formula ranked as ‘Good/Recommended’ by the Cosmetic Analysis Database
Also contains PTFE
Contains Carmine as a pigment ingredient so is not vegan
Shade 4– Harpoon
Contains 20 Ingredients – 14 Base Ingredients and 6 Pigment Ingredients
Formula is ranked as ‘Recommended/Good‘ by the Cosmetic Analysis Database
Contains Carmine as a pigment ingredient so is not vegan
The Girls Eyeshadow Palette Chemical Overview
As you can see, the four shades in the palette have slightly different chemical formula’s, but they share many of the same ingredients and the formula is consistent, with exceptions such as certain ingredients being in some shades and not others, and vice versa.
Three out of the four shades in the palette are NOT vegan and contain Carmine as a pigment ingredient (Suz, Turbosan and Harpoon) . The only shade that is vegan in the palette is Noli. Overall, each formula is really good with the exception of one ingredient that is in ALL shades – PTFE. If PTFE was not present, the formula’s would be near perfect (or as perfect as they can get anyway). Phenoxyethanol is used as the preservative ingredient, which is a safer alternative to parabens.
As I said, the only major problem that I have with the formula of the eyeshadows, and the only thing that jumps out is that they ALL contain PTFE, which is ranked as a ‘To Be Avoided/Very Bad’ ingredient by the Cosmetic Analysis Database.
Sooooo, What exactly is PTFE??????
PTFE is the abbreviated name for the chemical Polytetrafluoroethylene (also known as Teflon, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether and DEA-C8-18 Perfluoroalkylethyl Phosphate), and it is a skin conditioning, binding, bulking and slip agent that is commonly found in cosmetic products such as pressed and loose powder, blush, bronzer, highlighter, foundations, lipsticks, etc.
PTFE is used in cosmetics and skincare because it has skin conditioning and slip agent properties that allow it to act as a lubricant which makes it glide onto the skin very smoothly. Adding PTFE to a cosmetic formula can influence products to apply and blend easier on the skin, which may be why it is in this formula given that the shadows apply very smoothly.
PTFE has negative characteristics such as being toxic, potentially being able to influence genes and proteins and may be able to promote a build up of cancer-causing nitrosamine. It can also cause allergies. I thought I should note that PTFE is listed as a chemical of concern on the Safe Cosmetics Database.
PTFE has been heavily linked to health problems such as cancer (specifically, but not limited to, breast cancer) and endocrine disruptions. Some scientists believe that potential endocrine disruptions caused by PTFE include delayed puberty, reproductive toxicity and thyroid disease, among others. It is thought that PTFE can have effects on endocrine receptors, thyroid receptors and steroid hormones and may be able to mimic these natural hormones, which is why it can cause such disruption to the system. According to the Safe Cosmetics Database, children and pregnant woman are more susceptible to adverse heath effects from PTFE.
Although PTFE is classified as toxic , it only becomes toxic after reaching temperatures higher than 350C which NEVER occurs when it is added to cosmetic’s such as makeup and skincare. PTFE is currently approved for safety by the FDA and is legally used.
Could PTFE be responsible for the irritation???? Is it PTFE causing the irritation or is applying them wet doing it?
As you can see, PTFE is a dangerous ingredient, but it’s negative characteristics mainly derive from it’s potential to cause endocrine disruptions, mimic endocrine messengers and for it’s carcinogenic and toxic properties. I have not been able to find much research linking PTFE to skin irritation although I have read that it can cause allergies (which I don’t have, and the irritation I felt applying the eyeshadow’s was irritation and not an allergic response). This isn’t to say that PTFE couldn’t cause skin irritation, but research that is conducted about it has mainly focused on it’s more dangerous characteristics (aka being a potential carcinogen) than it’s potential to cause skin irritation.
All in all, I cannot say for sure but my opinion is that the irritation I felt after applying the shadows is a result of mixing water (and spray fix plus) with the actual eyeshadows on application. As I said above, after 5-10 minutes the irritation settled down and eventually totally went away, which correlates with the theory that the irritation was caused during the ‘setting down’ process of the wet eyeshadow on the lid.
Sooooooooo, while PTFE is a potentially horrible and unsafe ingredient, I am not sure that I can blame it totally for the skin irritation.
What do you think of the think of the Dose of Colors X Desi X Katy The Girls Eyeshadow Palette?? Which shade is you’re favourite and what on would you get the most use out of?? Let me know in the comments below babes!!
Stay tuned for Part 2 to my Desi X Katy Collection posts , which is coming! In this post, I will talk about the highlighters!!
Links To My Related Posts
My Other Eyeshadow Palette Posts- My Eyeshadow Palette Category Page Link
My Other Special Release/Makeup Collection Posts- My Special Release/Collection Category Page Link
My Other Dose of Colors Posts- My Dose of Colors Category Page Link
Where To Buy Desi X Katy X Dose of Colors Collection???
Dose of Colors Online- Dose of Colors Online Site Link
Collection is OUT OF STOCK at the moment but is restocking sometime in September!!
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